We decided that we wanted to put crown moulding in the nursery, and had the idea that we could install a rope light behind it to act as a nightlight. Here's how I pulled it off.
Next, you need to find an existing outlet from which you'll run the new wiring. You can see the one I chose in this picture. I chose this one because it's the one that's controlled by a switch. I was also lucky that it points away from the door because I wanted to make sure that one couldn't see the new outlet when they walked in the room. Once you identify your outlet, you'll want to test it to make sure it's already wired properly. Then, disconnect the power and make sure your tester tells you it's off.
Now it's time to cut out the new outlet. I already did this when wiring our flat panel TV, but here are a few new tricks I found. First draw out where it's going to go, and make sure it's going to fit. There could be conduit, pipes, wall studs, etc that will block the box installation. I did this by using a bent piece of wire that I put in a little hole I cut. First I figured out how big it would be from the center of the box. Then I put it in the hole and spun it around. If it hit something, I'd move the box down a bit. Once you find a suitable spot, cut out the rest of the hole. Don't put the new box in yet though.
Now it's time to snake the flexible conduit from the existing outlet up to the new one. This was the part that gave me fits with the TV wiring project, but it was a bit easier this time. First I punched out a new opening in the existing box. Then I fed my wire snake up through the hole I punched in the old box up to the hole for the new outlet box. In order to make sure I didn't lose the flexible conduit, I wanted to be able to secure it right away. So, I put the "nut" on the snake before feeding it up. It's a little tedious to find the destination, but just be patient. Once the snake is through the new hole, tape the flexible conduit to the snake. Make sure you have the ends on the conduit (without a "nut") before taping it. Next, use the snake to pull the conduit down to the old box, and secure the new conduit with the nut.
The first step was to purchase and collect the supplies. This project required flexible conduit (which comes with wires, but might not come with the ends that connect it to the box), rope lights measured to fit the perimeter of the room, a receptacle, an outlet cover, electrical tape, a receptacle box that be installed for existing installations, wire connectors, a wiring tester, dimmer switch, wiring pliers, drywall punch saw, a screwdriver, and cable tiedowns (not pictured).
Next, you need to find an existing outlet from which you'll run the new wiring. You can see the one I chose in this picture. I chose this one because it's the one that's controlled by a switch. I was also lucky that it points away from the door because I wanted to make sure that one couldn't see the new outlet when they walked in the room. Once you identify your outlet, you'll want to test it to make sure it's already wired properly. Then, disconnect the power and make sure your tester tells you it's off.
Next, you'll install the dimmer switch per the manufacturer's instructions. Test the lights after installing the dimmer.
Now it's time to cut out the new outlet. I already did this when wiring our flat panel TV, but here are a few new tricks I found. First draw out where it's going to go, and make sure it's going to fit. There could be conduit, pipes, wall studs, etc that will block the box installation. I did this by using a bent piece of wire that I put in a little hole I cut. First I figured out how big it would be from the center of the box. Then I put it in the hole and spun it around. If it hit something, I'd move the box down a bit. Once you find a suitable spot, cut out the rest of the hole. Don't put the new box in yet though.
Now it's time to snake the flexible conduit from the existing outlet up to the new one. This was the part that gave me fits with the TV wiring project, but it was a bit easier this time. First I punched out a new opening in the existing box. Then I fed my wire snake up through the hole I punched in the old box up to the hole for the new outlet box. In order to make sure I didn't lose the flexible conduit, I wanted to be able to secure it right away. So, I put the "nut" on the snake before feeding it up. It's a little tedious to find the destination, but just be patient. Once the snake is through the new hole, tape the flexible conduit to the snake. Make sure you have the ends on the conduit (without a "nut") before taping it. Next, use the snake to pull the conduit down to the old box, and secure the new conduit with the nut.
Now that the wire is pulled, you can connect the other end of the conduit to the new box, and secure it to the wall. Now it's just a simple step of wiring up the outlet, and the hard part of the electrical work is over.
Now comes the crown moulding. I decided to have the moulding consist of two pieces. One is a piece of colonial base, and the other a piece of standard crown. You can play with scraps at any home store to figure out what you want to do. The problem I faced was that crown is normally nailed to the wall and the ceiling, but I could nail it to the ceiling and still have the rope lights. So, I needed something else to which it would be secured. I also needed to make sure I installed everything at the same distance from the ceiling which is harder when the crown is only secured to the wall. I did this by firs installing the base piece (upside down) at a height that would allow me to still plug in the lights.
After determining the height, I cut two scrap pieces to match the distance between the base and the ceiling. Then, I went around the room installing the base. I was able to do this by myself (didn't want to strain the pregnant wife) by holding the base and one piece of scrap in place with one hand and nailing with the other. I then used the other piece of scrap to move further down the wall, nailing the base into premarked stud positions. Now that the base was in place, it was time to install the crown.
There are several videos and sites out there on how to install crown, but I think I did it the wrong way. Some sites say to position the crown upside down on your miter saw, with the saw's fence acting like the wall and the base of the saw acting like the ceiling. This works in theory, but I found that the crown would shift a little bit while cutting, throwing off the angles completely. I was able to fix this through the magic of caulk, but if it was a stained wood installation, it would have looked really badly. The better approach, one that I used later when making shelves out of scrap crown, is to lay the crown flat on the base of the saw, and set the angle of the cut and the tilt of the cut to the proper angles. There are charts out there on what the angle should be given the angle of the crown.
Anyway, back to how I secured the crown. I cut several 45 degree pieces of 2x4, one for each stud, and nailed them in place using another two pieces of scrap to help me align them. Be careful how close you put them to the corners of walls as you don't want them to block where the crown will go.
After that, I installed the crown, securing them to the pieces of 2x4. Then, I put the rope lights up behind the crown, securing them with cable tiedowns, and painted. Paint afterward, because there will be fingerprints.
There you go. It's a project that you could do yourself, and we'll probably do again for our dining room.
1 comment:
I have seen the use of rope lighting primarily in kitchens underneath cabinets, but I absolutely love the idea of adding it above the crown moulding to act as a nightlight for a nursery. I could see this idea working well in a den or family room as well -- I'm thinking movie theatre! Thank you for sharing the process in such great detail and for sharing the idea! Great work!
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